Living in L.A. definitely has its advantages. (“Let’s see, where do you want go today: the mountains, the desert or the beach?”) We also have about as much variety in entertainment as anywhere in the world. Specifically, and, most apropos to this forum, we have an abundance of small theatre. On any given weekend, there are probably over fifty legitimate theatres just within L.A. proper, offering professional quality productions for not much more (and sometimes less than) the price of a movie ticket. No other city in the world can offer that, and most Angelinos (myself included) may not always appreciate it.

The cloud in this silver lining is that small theatre has been, to a large extent, monopolized by industry professionals in this town. Sure, there are actors’ workshops, performance artists and experimental one-person shows, enough to keep things edgy. But one doesn’t get the feeling of real community theatre. Not the kind of theatre I imagine, in my stereotypical, romanticized way, that takes place in small towns throughout this country:

(cue music)

Where townspeople congregate to their local auditorium or meeting hall on a Saturday night to watch their neighbors stage a production of “Death of a Salesman” or “Annie Get Your Gun,” accompanied by the high school music teacher on a small upright, on a set that was built by the local carpenter in his garage and hand-painted by his wife along with some students from the high school art class. Where everyone knows when opening night is because it’s been printed in the church bulletin for weeks. Where the makeshift sign at the entrance to the auditorium spells “theater” with an unpretentious “-er.” And where curtain calls are appreciated but unnecessary, because you can always give the performers feedback when you see them at church the next day or when they’re serving you breakfast on Monday morning at the local coffee shop.

It’s that kind of experience that I think we are missing living in the entertainment capital of the world. Here, waiters serve you headshots with your meal, copy stores have special deals for scripts, and no explanation is needed when someone says they work “in the industry.” Theatre in this city, even small theatre, has been, for better or worse, coopted by that industry.

That’s why I was so pleasantly surprised when I showed up for a performance of “The Apple Tree” at the Crown City Theatre Company. If I ignore the “-re” suffix in the name of the company, and avoid reading the professional resumes of the cast and crew, I could imagine being in that fictitious Anytown, U.S.A. community center watching real people putting on real community theater.

What first put me in the mood was the theater itself, located at the back of a community church, a banner for the production hanging in front, illuminated by a single spotlight. And, because there is no parking lot but plenty of street parking, people walk up to the entrance by foot from all different directions, just like they do in the small town scenario in my head.

The set looked like the kind I would build myself if I had the time and the talent. It was wonderfully simple, beginning with just two step ladders (a la Our Town) and some rough-painted sheets and background sets.

The production itself is a series of three one-act musicals based on classic tales of “men, women and temptation.” The first, “The Diary of Adam and Eve,” starts the evening off on a high note. Based on a Mark Twain adaptation of the genesis story, it starred Matthew J. Williamson and Morgan Landers as the title characters discovering themselves and the world. “The Lady or the Tiger” was a fairly faithful rendition of the classic story by Frank R. Stockton and starred Kit Paquin and Josh Helmuth as the star-crossed lovers and Brian Maples as the narrator. “Passionella,” based on the Jules Feiffer adaptation of the Cinderella story, and starring Stephanie Fredricks as the chimney sweep who dreams of becoming a movie star, finished off the evening with flair and humor.

Although usually performed with the same actors playing the leads in all three acts, here the ensemble cast effectively rotated the leading roles. In addition, each piece is directed by a different person.

One of the directors, Gary Lamb, also produced, choreographed and designed the set and lighting. According to his resume, he has been involved in all aspects of theatre, much of it outside of Hollywood. I assume most of the credit for setting the tone for the production can be attributed to him and his diverse experience. His directorial contribution, “Adam and Eve,” was especially noteworthy for not appearing overly done or heavy handed.

“The Apple Tree” is not the greatest, most professional production I have seen this year, but it was such a fresh, unpretentious departure from the norm that I hardly noticed.

The Apple Tree is performed Fridays and Saturdays at 8 p.m. and Sundays at 2 pm through July 12.

The Crown City Theater is located on the campus of St. Matthew’s Church at 11031 Camarillo Street (where Lankershim and Vineland meet) in North Hollywood.

Ticket prices: $20.00 (Seniors/students: $15.00)

Reservations online at www.brownpapertickets.com or by phone at (800) 838-3006.